Budapest

Budapest is really two cities joined across the Danube, hilly Buda on one bank and flat, bustling Pest on the other, linked by grand bridges. The riverfront is one of Europe's most striking, with the neo-Gothic Parliament glowing at night and the castle and Fisherman's Bastion looking down from Castle Hill. It is a place of faded grandeur that has found new energy.

The city's signature pleasure is its thermal baths, fed by natural hot springs, where the grand Széchenyi complex lets you soak outdoors even in the snow. After dark, the famous ruin bars fill crumbling old courtyards with mismatched furniture and music, offering a nightlife scene unlike anywhere else. Hearty Hungarian cooking and gentle prices round out the appeal.

Spring and fall are ideal, with comfortable temperatures and the baths at their most enjoyable. Winters get cold but atmospheric around the Christmas markets, while summer is warm and lively along the river.